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Instructions
Learn the basics, tips, and tricks for using various Corina-Bead-Stamps! |
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- As for Using the CBS - just make sure that the left side of the brass piece you screw in is "butting up" to the pin on the left - that is your "alignment guide" when setting the top of the stamp down to smash your bead.
- Don't let the top part sit on the bead for too long - just push once, then take it off...if you let it sit for more than a few seconds it will cause your bead to break, since the metal sucks the heat out of the glass!
- The nicest shapes of lentils will be achieved if you start out with beads that are round, rather than donut shaped.
- The MOST IMPORTANT POINT is in the finishing of the bead! You need to flame polish it in order to get rid of the slight chill-marks - and here is what you have to do: Flame polish each side separately! don't rotate the bead in the flame - that will cause the edges to go back to a rounded shape. If you like nice crisp edges on your beads, make sure to flame polish in a way that the flame is not hitting the edge!!!! problems with making lentils? email me, send pictures, I will collect those problems here and help other people to make better lentils as well..
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Make sure that the X-mark on the molds both face towards the left. This is very important for proper alignment. |
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Start off by making a base cylinder bead that is as long as the stamp you want to use. Add more glass and decoration until round and full. |
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Align your bead so that the mandrel is in line with the mandrel channels on the base stamp... |
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Grab the hand stamp and press firmly but briefly and return the bead to the flame to polish the chill marks and bring it up to temperature. |
*Please note: the CBS pictured is the original prototype. Pictures with the new model will be added eventually. |
Using the X-L Lentil Upgrades |
- Typically you would make all your decoration on that initial shaped bead (be it surface decoration or an encased bead) - and then you mash it as the final step, but you can also place decoration on top of the mashed lentil of course....Basically it is just like making a regular lentil - on a bigger scale. The amount of glass it will take to fill a mold is usually about a third of a full rod of 5-6 mm Moretti
- The flatter mold requires less glass - which means that you have to start out with a shape that is radically diffferent what we are used to. The mold will "squish" the glass quite a bit toward the edge of the mold...
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Using the Saturn & Lollipop Upgrade |
- Each tool has both the straight rim and the radius rim... which gives you a distinctivly different look. The straight edge is slightly more difficult, since you need the exact amount of glass to fill the mold, but with a little practice that is no problem.
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